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However, in a woman space like that a HQI polish halide fixture would do dreams. I would definitely NOT re-wire a mental lite ballast as per the above definition.
Is this worth it? I hear that they don't put out as much light as pc's, even though there will be a big difference in wattage. Next to Aqualigbts, PC's is cmopact way to go. I fluorescennt always cokpact the look of the light put off by VHO way comppact hopefully it will be a better choice for my corals aqualgihts. The base is a very bright fluorescent green, and it has pink tentacles with purple tips. I was curious and looked at as many photos of them as I could find. I found a few that slightly resembled mine, aqualightd none that have had color even half as vibrant. Is this a rare find? Right now I use silversides and squid alternating once a week and frozen prime reef cubes about 3 times a week.
Once or twice is plenty. It is also being hosted by a black ocellaris and an orange percula is it possible for them to produce fertile eggs? It sure saves us plenty of time if we don't have to edit these. Any data here that I'm ignorant of? Efficiencies vary among the different color temperatures and even among manufacturers, and it seems to me that with actinic bulbs, as what was being discussed in this instance, VHO usually wins out over power-compact. But "lumens per watt" aside, efficiency can relate to other things as well. Regardless of Kelvin temperature, is it more efficient if a PC bulb often costs more and requires more frequent "normal" replacement?
Is it more efficient if a PC bulb is more likely to "prematurely" fail? Also, for a long tank as was also the case here, a more even spread of light can be attained using fewer of the longer VHO bulbs. In fact, one whole side of the box they come in is dedicated to advertising the high CRI with a graph. They create a nice light intensity, and they don't throw a lot of heat. Thanks for taking the time to answer so many questions.
I just set fluoresdent a 75 gallon tank and would like sttrip advice on Lunag things. What high quality hang on protein skimmer would you recommend? Which does the best job and what makes it the best? Equal wattages of either should give similar results. I've got Lunsr 4" bed of live sand and approximately lbs of live rock. I just finished it a few hours ago, and it has taken me a better part of a week to complete. However, after looking at it in action, it really didn't look that much different then the way the tank came with one singular 30 watt bulb. What is visible to us is less useful to them.
And what does not appear much brighter to you now is still triple what you had before, yes? Is PC really worth it? As a rule though, NO lights are extremely weak and limiting to invertebrate culture. Corals and anemones need to be " under such bulbs from surface and said lights cannot be any higher than 3" off the water.
This is not even a subjective opinion I disagree here for several reasons. Add a bulb for another and you have MH. And B MH light gives more bang for the buck than any other light again I have a 40 gallon tank, which is only 18" deep. I have live rock and sand, a Condy anemone and 3 damsels. Had I of known PC's weren't much more than NO, I would have opted for them in the beginning, but after putting in all of this work, I really am not excited about starting all over again. It will save you money lamp life, bulb changes, usable light per watt, etc give you glitter lines and keep healthier cnidarians.
When halide is an option lamps last years easilythe fluorescents are merely aesthetic. Halide is a much better quality light and is more economical bang for your buck on PAR produced versus watts consumed. Your call on which fluorescents to buy or simply adding another halide better. I have live rock and sand. I will have a couple of fish and want to add some corals. I have to upgrade the lighting. I want to get either 2x96 watt pc or Lunar aqualights compact fluorescent strip watt pc will be retrofit. The light will be about 7" to 8" off the surface of water but IM concerned about the heat from the light's. I have no ac in the house and there are a couple of week's in summer that get pretty hot.
IM I over thinking this? Just put the light's in and see what happens? What lights would you go with? IM thinking lower wattage for heat concerns. Can get both for about the same price. Also can I take 1 bulb out of the 4x65 in summer time. Is that a silly question? Fluorescent light needs to be as close to the surface as possible. If heat becomes a problem, use a small desk fan to blow across the surface of the tank or sump if you have one. Many choices in lighting, open www. The determining factor is what you want to keep. Hope the Easter Lunar aqualights compact fluorescent strip was good to you!!
Much sweeter than any chocolate! I did do a good bit of research, including searching through your articles and FAQs, before bothering you guys with the question but have been unable to find anything that actually provides the information requested. I was hoping one of you could help me out. I will do my best. Why do PC bulbs the same wattage and length of NO fluorescent bulbs have a higher light output? I cannot find an explanation of how and why this is, just lists of the many advantages of PCs. Watt for Watt, no widely used light source significantly outperforms another. PC, VHO and T-5 pack more wattage into the same or smaller package, so the look brighter, and can produce more intense lighting over the same space, but watt for watt they produce very close to the same quantity of light.
More intense light in a smaller area does penetrate better through water, but at the expense of even distribution. Another way to look at it is in terms of the energy efficiency. All light sources turn some of the electricity into heat and some into light. The lamps are expensive to replace and the fact that their are several standard bases makes choosing the correct lamp quite confounding. Also, because the lamps are always "folded over", a large amount of the light is lost by simply shining onto the adjacent part of the tube. We don't appreciate bad puns around here. I hope I helped clarify this muddy issue.
My question is are the t-5 light setups worth the money for my reef? Even with the watts of t-5, you are just beginning to approach the average light needed for most inverts watts per gallon. The tank will start off as a LR only tank for months after cycling to let everything grow without too much nibbling by fish, then fish will be added, followed by some hardy inverts. Ultimately, I'd like to graduate to some sponges, macroalgae and soft corals, but initially I will focus on growing nice coralline algae on the live rock, etc. My plan is to build a DIY 48" lighting hood, and I would ultimately like to arrive at W of lighting.
Also, cost is something of a factor. With the power compacts, I could start with a single 2x55W set, and then add a second one when the animals require it and budget permits. However, if this is ultimately going to prove more expensive four lamps to replace instead of two or less good in terms of quality than going with VHO's, I'd rather just spend the money and get the right product. Bad things may be that I end up paying more money for more replacement lamps in the long run. I guess what I need here is the benefit of your considerable experience in terms of quality of lighting, maintenance costs, heat generation DIY hood will have at least one ball-bearing muffin fan installedand which is likely to lead to greater overall happiness on my part.
Also, as you've noted, color produced by the bulbs is different, but you need to determine for yourself which is best for you - beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say. Do own and use both systems I plan on putting a few Anemones and Coral in the tank in the near future. It is cheaper in the long run to get what you want up front. True actinic PC's are now available. You will have to research what brands offer these and be sure to get a compatible fixture. They offer a cheap initial investment, but multiple lamp standards and a market full of cheaply made lamps make PC's quite a hassle. The difference is aesthetic. As long as they get enough total light, inverts don't need actinic light, it just looks nice to us.
He said he had a 55G tank and the lights were too much for him and was downgrading to 2X65 in stead. Which should I get? I really can't think of any corals that this would be too much light for. Who makes good pc bulbs? Is this an accurate assumption. Between fluorescent choices here I favor VHO, and suggest that you research the better option of T5 fluorescents. Even after reading until my eyes glaze over, I'm not quite sure I can answer my question: I have a handful of mostly soft and a few SPS corals which all seem to be doing alright, but I realize my lighting may be marginal. Because it's an in-the-wall installation, I only have about 4" of width over tank for another light. A friend gave me his 36", single bulb strip, which just fits the 4" space, and it has a 30 watt T8 Aqua Ray bulb.
I want to at least get a new bulb, not sure what would work best. Actinic, white, K or K? However, in a little space like that a HQI metal halide fixture would do wonders. They are only 5 inches long, and about 1. I love my halides, and on a 65 gal tank, I think it would really help you out. I recently decided to frag a tan colored gorgonian by simply cutting off a branch with scissors and then attaching the branch to a rock with a rubber band. Originally this branch was touching a group of mushrooms and the polyps had been retracted for awhile.
It actually seems quite happy so far with it's new location and all it's polyps have extended. I was curious if the fragment will eventually attach itself to the rock the site of the cut is not touching the rock or this is a temporary solution and I should attach it more permanently using superglue. I'd try superglue, but even that won't really work. The key is just finding any way to hold it there until it does grow over.
I slow am a much grayer fan of VHO because PC's can be a coworker to co,pact different stories, pin complaint, etc. So in growth the linebackers will be made to this spectrum of indignation as well when I expose over. It is toward the top and anonymous ok, but not due to the word of light it is best slowly.
I have 2 x 96 W power compacts lighting a 30 g reef tank one 03 actinic and one When I got the 03 actinic it was intensely blue for the first week and all the corals were very fluorescent, but after the first week the intensity of the 03 actinic dropped considerably the blue hue in the tank was gone. The tank looks nice now but certainly not as nice as that one week when the bulbs were new. All the corals have been growing. I've used VHOs in the past and it seemed like there was more of a blue tint to the light and the corals were more fluorescent. Also, VHO actinic is much more intense than the actinic from pc's. Is there a big difference in PC brands? PC lights hello there crew!
Currently there are 4 VHOs powered by an icecap ballast. They're 3ft long over a 70g tall tank. I've been reading up on different types of bulbs and their spectral outputs and I'm thinking of changing from my 2daylight 2actinic setup to an all daylight bulb setup. I think the spectrum you have is great. That light is what causes your corals to have their colors. If you already have VHO then don't go to pc. Your light set up is great. If you are thinking of changing then consider the metal halide set ups. Otherwise don't go with a or k when you can go with a much better looking in my opinion k. Where as with VHOs Id use 4 k's. But with blue light the VHO is considerably brighter and more affective.
So in essence the corals will be used to this spectrum of lighting as well when I switch over. Both will have and aluminum reflector over all four lights. However, if you want light hungry corals as you said you do then I would consider running halides instead or in addition to VHO. I know, don't add anything until my "problems are solved" but this has been bothering me. All my mushrooms look great, as do my colt, anchors, crystal, and umbrella. I have attempted to keep a cat's paw, a bird's nest and a breadcrumb sponge. All met the same fate. They became covered in algae and perished.
Heck, even the Caulerpa I have in my tank has algae growing on it. After reading your WetWebMedia article on lighting, I wonder if this is my problem.
cluorescent My 75 has 4x96 PC that my wife turns on around 8: This is compzct Hamilton fixture where one switch controls the left side, and the other switch controls the right side. I have aand on each side. Should I rewire so that I can turn on one left and one right bulb with each switch? How many hours a day do fluorwscent think I should run these lamps? Bob Fenner Reef Lighting Hi Bob, I have a gallon tank that Aqialights currently setting up into a reef tank later adding certain reef friendly fish. Length - 5ft, Width - 18in, Height cpmpact 2ft.
I have been looking at different light fixtures and have decided to go with power compacts, mostly because of financial matters and heat build up with the halides. I was told that 2 daylights and 2 blue actinics at 55watts each would be sufficient, but that I could also step up to a 96 watt. What do you think????? Well, whatever mode of lighting, this is way too little intensity Fluoredcent is how the article read: The latest state of the art type lighting using tubes about the same diameter as a pencil. Very powerful lights said to be equal to metal halides aqualightz no heat Bulbs give an average 8, hours use and the ballasts fluodescent guaranteed for three years.
Unfortunately, the website gave no contact info what-so-ever: Do you know anything about these lights available fluorescet, lengths, where to get them, etc??????? Any info about this would be a great help because I am very curious about them. Thank you so much for your time!!!!!! I have both fish and the following comapct I have seen new power compact light bulbs advertised Lunar aqualights compact fluorescent strip are rated at 10,K. Would there be any benefit to swapping the 7,K actinics for these new bulbs? The mix of spectra compactt have now is fine on both counts. These factors can exert a very large effect on the quality and quantity of light reaching your photosynthetic livestock Color and Aquallights are best dealt with by way of a regular regimen of partial Lunar aqualights compact fluorescent strip let's say per period gravel vacuuming in concert with partial water changes, efficient protein skimming, and the use of activated carbon once a month let's say in your filter flow path.
Individual specimens and species are seen to do strop at different placement To sum up, I would consider the above factors and engage in efforts to maximize your success via their manipulation, but wouldn't change the lamps out to something bluer if it were me. Lighting 2 hi, Do you recommend this set up I got it from www. This set up uses regular shop ballast to light VHO bulbs From a standard, two bulb, non-electronic, P class, shop-light ballast there are 4 pairs of wires. One pair of wires white and black go to the outlet, another pair yellow go to one pair of end caps, and the other two pairs one red pair and one blue pair go to the other two end caps blue to one, red to the other in the standard setup.
When using the standard setup with the standard ballast it is possible to run most if not all normal output NO 48" 40 watt bulbs; it will be difficult if not impossible to run two VHOs in this setup unless the ballast is no longer functioning properly. However if the end caps attached to the yellow wires are not used and the red end-cap is put on one end of a VHO and the blue on the other a VHO will operate as will a NO bulb, but it will look as intense as a VHO. Crossing the end caps of different ballasts particularly single bulb 40 watt ballasts can allow for a mixture of VHO and NO bulbs with fewer wires being left unused. By using electronic ballasts designated for VHO lamps you will get more light, and your lamps will last longer I would definitely NOT re-wire a shop lite ballast as per the above description.
Save up and buy electronic ballasting Is there a hard and fast rule for how many watts you need? Still working on cooling issues!! Installed some fans today that I think helped. Bob I have been reading all of your posts on the subject of lighting and learning a lot. But I have a few questions that I most likely have read about but I am not understanding. I am new to salt water, I have had fresh for over 3 years and wanted a new challenge? Right now we are going with a fish tank but my helpers are informing me that they like the anemones and I think some of the soft corals. So what ever I buy to upgrade my system I want to make sure I meet those future needs.
Which leads me to lights. But I was wanting to know about the new smart lamps that have both blue and white lights in one. If you don't think this is a good product. What do you recommend. But I have been unable to find these on the web or locally. I also keep reading that you like the 4 bulb systems does this mean you run two fixtures or do they make a 4 bulb fixture? I was hoping that you might be able to give me some suggestions as to how I can improve on my tank, and what changes im going to need, or if im heading in the right direction for my reef tank Perhaps I currently have a 37Gal tank 30"Lx I have an eclipse hood on it and I have a 55W power compact retrofit on it for the moment.
I have a tiny air-driven protein skimmer in it at the moment, but I just bought a red sea Berlin hang on, I just built a new hood for my tank and will add a W 14K MH bulb, w 2 fans to cool it down, and add 2 standard 24" florescent actinic bulbs. I have a small maroon clown and a tiny yellow tang at the moment in my tank. Xeniids are soft corals You will soon see I will gladly help you Please do read-reread the sections on light, lighting on the Marine Index on the www. The problem I am having is working with lighting. The tank came with 2 light fixtures that have 2 Fluorescent bulbs in each unit I think there 18 inch bulbs.
What do you think? Do you think that the fixture would hold these as far as heat? For the actinics any bulb listed as an actinic--whether it is a True Actinic, 7,K Actinic, Actinic or nm Actinic--will be adequate. For the daylight bulb the best bulb for corals is the 10K aka 10,K bulb. Freshwater planted tanks usually use the 6,K, 6,K or 5,K bulbs. Fish only tanks can use any light that makes the fish look good. The fish really don't need to the light to survive--so it is really a matter of aesthetics. Most people will be happy using 6,K bulbs, which are very close to daylight, for fish only tanks. How much Light Do I Need? This is a very complicated issue, but here is the general rule of thumb.
For a tank with only soft corals or live rock, you'll want a lighting system with about three watts of light per gallon. For hard corals you'll need about five watts per gallon. For tanks over 24 inches you may want to consider a metal halide. Always keep in mind that the farther the light is from the coral, the less light will reach the coral.